Broken Bay First Encounters

William Bradley's Account

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View in Broken Bay New South Wales. March 1788                    W.B.

Source: “A Voyage to New South Wales”, December 1786 – May 1792, by William Bradley
William Bradley Journal: (Safe 1/14) Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW
http://acms.sl.nsw.gov.au/item/itemdetailpaged.aspx?itemid=412904

Introduction

William Bradley was a First Lieutenant on board HMS Sirius when it arrived in Sydney Cove, Australia, along with the other ten ships of the First Fleet in January 1788.

Six weeks later, on 2nd March, Bradley was aboard one of three tiny boats that explored Broken Bay to the north of Sydney Harbour. Again in September 1789 he was included in a mapping survey by boat of Broken Bay and its tributaries.

Bradley’s journal, from which the following extracts are taken, was not known to the general public “until 1923, a year before it was acquired by Mitchell Library from a London bookseller” (State Library of NSW). In pages 88 to 94 of the journal and in one of 23 watercolour paintings inserted into its pages, Bradley recalled his experience of the first journey into Broken Bay. Then in pages 164 to 175 and in two other water colours drawings he described additional explorations of the Bay and its tributaries made by survey parties in 1789.  Pittwater (first known as the ‘South Arm’), Brisbane Water  (known, until about 1823,  as the ‘North Arm’), and the course of the Hawkesbury River, were all  mapped in these journeys.  A chart of Broken Bay drawn up from their survey efforts was part of the journal inclusions.

The following images of the relevant hand-written pages of the journal are accompanied by typed transcripts prepared by staff of the State Library of NSW for clarity of interpretation. Other than that, and this introduction, the journal extracts are presented alone, without additional interpretative lenses.

Now, in the 21st century, the geographical and historical interpretation of such journal accounts requires that we engage in careful detective work based on a reading of all relevant documents from the period and on the study of the evidence from the current natural and human landscape. A good starting point for students and teachers planning a history excursion to the area is the modern day interpretation offered by Alan  Nash (1990) in Phillip's Exploration of the Hawkesbury River in Chapter 2, (pages 11-30) of  "Hawkesbury River History: Governor Phillip Exploration and Early Settlement" edited by Jocelyn Powell and Loraine Banks, Southward Press, Marrickville, NSW.

Acknowledgement

We thank the State Library of NSW for permission given to include on this website the following extracts - images and transcripts - from the Bradley Journal, held in the Mitchell Library which this year celebrates 100 years of service to people and nation.

Extracts from William Bradley's Journal

Source: “A Voyage to New South Wales”, December1786 – May 1792, by William Bradley

William Bradley Journal: (Safe 1/14) Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW
http://acms.sl.nsw.gov.au/item/itemdetailpaged.aspx?itemid=412904


THREE WATERCOLOUR DRAWINGS

View in Broken Bay New South Wales. March 1788
W.B.
SW. Arm of Broken Bay New South Wales from an Island at the Entrance. Sepr , 1789 
W.B.
North Arm of Broken Bay New South Wales from an island at the entrance Sepr 1789. 
W. Bradley

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JOURNAL TEXT PAGES 88 TO 94 AND 164 TO 175

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TRANSCRIPT OF TEXT 

Page 88[a138088]

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1788.
March.
that it had been exchanged, he let it go & seem pleased.
At 8. Went out of Port Jackson, when off the Harbour, the Heads of Broken Bay are within the N.o extreme of Land; the S.o Head is 15 Miles to the N.oward of the No Head of Port Jackson, round which head the Coast forms a deep bight & has a Cove or bend where a Boat may shelter from this the beach runs about 3 Miles to the N.oward to a reef of rocks which break some distance out & round which is a bight with a long sandy beach on which close round this reef of rocks a boat may land if caught upon the shore & not able to reach either of the Harbours: all round this bight the Natives appear'd on the high land, from this there did not appear to be any shelter for Boats in any of the Sandy Bays; as we passed the sandy bay next the S.o Head of Broken Bay, we were met by 3 Canoes having one Man & 5 Women in them, they came alongside of our Boats quite familiarly: The Governor push'd over to the N.o shore in the Cutter.
The tide set so strong to the S.oward, that it was with difficulty the Long boat could get round the S.o Head. As the evening closed we lost sight of the Cutter & as we approached the N.o shore of Broken Bay we made Signals by flashing of Powder & saw lights immediately after on the N.o shore to which we rowed & found to be the Natives lights, we then hauled off & fired a Musquet which was immediately answer'd & we soon saw the Cutter & at 9 at Night Moored the Boats in a Cove

Page 89[a138089]

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1788.
March.
on the N.o side of the Bay off which the Surf broke violently: When the Cutter first landed, they were met by a great number of the Natives, Men, Women & Children, the Men were all armed with Spears, Clubs, Stone Hatchets & Wooden Swords, they were all very friendly & when the Long boat landed were without arms, we passed the night in this Cove on board the Boats every body.
Monday. 3rd: At day light went into the N.o branch of the Harbour which has a shoal & narrow entrance just within which we stoped, found the Natives familiar, they had several Huts here which were merely small sticks placed against each other & cover'd over with bark; In these Huts were several Women Old & young, they were much terrified at first, but soon were composed & familiar on having presents made them: they had several Cray fish about these Huts. 
As we proceeded up this branch after passing a very shoal flat & two or three Coves, we found set out so strong that we could not pull ahead through between two projecting points, on which we landed in a Cove adjacent; Here we were met by several Natives, Men & Women who all came freely about us. All the Women we met with in this Bay two only excepted had lost two joints of the little finger on the left hand, which custom like others we are at a loss to account for: It was supposed by some to be the pledge on the Marriage Ceremony, or on their having Children, I cannot agree in that opinion as one of the exceptions was

Page 90[a138090]

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1788.
March
an Old who had had Children & the other a young woman who had not. The others who had all been subject to this Custom were of both descriptions, Old & Young. This was not observed at Port Jackson as a custom among them but noticed in some & supposed to have been done by accident. We found most of the women had the Hole bored through the Nose the same as the Men. When the Tide had slacken'd we pushed up & found several small inlets between Mangroves, on one of which Islands we stop'd & pitch'd the Tents; had very hard rain all the morning
Tuesday. 4th. PM While the Tents & Clothes were drying, some of the Natives landed & were easily kept at a proper distance from the Clothes; A Crab was caught & proved very good.
AM. At day light proceeded up, found it to be an extensive & very shoal peice of water, too much so for the Boats to go over the flats without the risk of being left dry on the Ebb tide. We found Natives all the way up. Not being able to determine the extent of this peice of water, we returned to the Cove in which we first stoped: where we found a Straw Hat & some strings of beads which favours the opinion of their not having any fixed residence as nothing of that kind had been given them here & several were both at Port Jackson & at Botany Bay; After staying a short time here we went over to the S.o side of the Bay into the SW arm off which is an

Page 91[a138091]

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1788
March
Island, We moored the Boats about 3 Miles up this Branch, had heavy rain, Thunder & Light'ning all night.
Wednesday. 5th AM: Followed the sw. arm up to the head found several Coves & good depth of water all the way up which I suppose to be about 7 Miles, we left two openings to the S.oward without looking into them & left this Arm without examining a large opening to the NW out of it about a mile & half above the Island: We went into the S.o Arm were caught suddenly by a thunder squall & had much difficulty in getting in: 
In a Cove just within the entrance we were met by an Old Man & Boy. He had a stone in his hand which he laid down as he came towards us, he shew'd us the best landing place, brought us a stick of Fire & some Water signifying to us that the rain was very cold, we gave them fish & the Governor exchanged some things for Spears, this Man was but little scar'd about the body.
Thursday. 6. PM. Continuing to rain we secured every thing for the night, the Old Man was with us till the evening.
AM. Went up this Arm, saw several of the Natives in every Cove, the Old Man & boy followed us round to one of the Coves & shew'd us water; We stop'd in a Cove on the E.t side about 3 Miles up, several women in Canoes were fishing two of them came ashore the one an Old & Ugly, the other a young woman tall & was the handsomest woman I have seen amongst

Page 92[a138092]

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1788
March.
them, she was very big with Child, her fingers were complete as were those of the Old Woman. One of the Women made a fishing hook while we were by her, from the inside of what is commonly called the pearl oyster shell, by rubbing it down on the rocks until thin enough & then cut it circular with another, shape the hook with a sharp point rather bent in & not bearded or barbed, in this Cove we met with a kernel which they prepare & give their Children, I have seen them eat it themselves, they are a kind of nut growing in bunches somewhat like a pine top & are poisonous without being properly prepared the method of doing which we did not learn from them. Hard rain the greatest part of these 24 Hours.
Friday. 7. Were at the upper part of the S.o Arm, found in every part of it, very good depth of water except a Flat at the entrance from the Et point 2/3 of the way over, between which & the W.tern shore is a Channel with 3 f.m. at low water & that depth close to the rocks, the Land on the E.t side of this Arm is in general good & clear, on the W.t side all Rocks & thick woods. 
AM Left the S.oern Arm & went again into the SW Arm to look into that opening to the NW, found but few of the Natives in it: We landed on an Island about 2 miles up this branch, on which we secured every thing for the night, got a great quantity of Mullet in the Sein from which we called it Mullet Island, there is long flat to the SE & a reef

Page 93[a138093]

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1788.
March.
of rocks, round which is the bay for hauling th Sein, we found some Huts on the Island, but only 3 Natives came to us this evening.
Saturday. 8. AM. Several of the Natives came to us, painted very whimsically with pipe Clay & red Ochre both which is plenty on the Island, the pipe clay just under the Sand on the beach round the rocks. We followed this branch up to the NW some distance, found openings to the N.oward & NW & on the W.t side of this opening to the NW, there appear'd to be an Island with passages round it on both sides, but we only examined that opening to the NW above Mullet Island which was found to be very shoal, that to the N.oward not having more than 6 feet water across the entrance just within the points forming it prevented our looking farther into it: About Noon having finished our superficial examination which was much hinder'd by constant heavy rains, we returned to a Cove at the Outer part of the S.o Arm to be ready to go out of the Bay.
Sunday. 9th. PM. The Old Man & Boy came to us as before, with several more of the Natives, they had many things given to them but that did not keep them from stealing, after dark the Old Man took an Iron spade & was going off with it, he was seen from the Longboat, pursued & brought back with it by one of the people on shore: The Governor chastised him for it, which so enraged him that he run off & very soon

Page 94[a138094]

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1788.
March
returned with his party all with their Spears ready to throw when a Musquet was fired which made them stop & a second Musquet drove them away for the night.
AM. At day light, the Old Man & his Companions came to us just the same as if nothing had happen'd & without Arms: About 6 O'Clock we left Broken Bay & got into Spring Cove in Port Jackson at 11.
Monday. 10th. PM. Landed in a Cove above Spring Cove & in Camp Cove, in which last we saw several of the Natives who ran away all but two, those stayed on the beach & one of them shew'd us the marks on his body where he had been beat & also cut on the Shoulder by the people who landed here from two Boats, He made signs to us that the barbed spear had been jab'd several times into his shoulder: about 6. returned to the Ship. 
An Emew had been shot while we were away & proved very good eating. Some of the Convicts straggling into the woods met with several of the Natives, a quarrel ensued, who were the agressors is hard to say, but the Convicts were some of them wounded & one since dead. One of the Seamen belonging to the Lady Penryhne Transport, who had been missing some days, was found in the woods by a man employed shooting for the Governor. He had been stript of all his clothes, not able to stand & scarce sensible.
Tuesday. 11th. Were informed by the Man empd to get Greens for the

Page 164[a138164]

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1789
May. June.
had been detached in October last for the purpose of cultivating that part of the Country, their situation is pleasant, the soil good, the Country open & promises much to the success of the Colony; It is 12 miles above Sydney Cove & 4 from the flatts from which a creek runs up Navigable for Barges or Lighters, observing the tides. We met with 6 Canoes as went up & saw the same number of Fires as we returned in the Cove just below the flatts.
June.2nd. Twenty Canoes passed Sydney Cove going down the Harbour, this was the first time any number of them had been seen together since the small pox having been among them.
Saturday.6th. The Supply sailed for Norfolk Island with an Officer & additional number of Marines & Provisions for that Island: The Governor & Capt. Hunter went to the 
N .ward to trace those parts of Broken Bay which had been left unexamined, the Master of the Sirius & a Mid. was sent round with two boats to meet the party who walked over:
Thursday.11th. A Native Man was met with at Botany Bay who had just recover'd of the small pox, He had as child with him & made signs that the Mother of it had died of that disease.
Wednesday.17th. The Governor & Party returned from Broken

Page 165[a138165]

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1789
June
Bay; In the branch running to the NW out of the SW arm they discover'd that an opening round an Island, which had not been examined before, led to a fresh water River up which they went about 20 Miles from the Island at the mouth of it, when they were obliged to return for want of Provisions to enable them to proceed, when they gave up their pursuit they had 6 fm. water & made use of it both for drinking & cooking. They met with but few Natives & found some that died of the small pox laying near the path between Port Jackson & Broken Bay. In a Cove of the So. Arm they met with a woman who had just recover'd but was so reduced & weak that she could not accompany her Companion who ran away on the boat coming in near where they were, this poor creature crawled in among the long Grass to hide herself & was by chance found in that situation, after having received every releif that could be given her, she became familiar as her fears subsided, but was not to be found when the Boats came away: By Capt. Hunters Observation taken near the Inner So.Head of Broken Bay it appears to be 15 Miles to the N.ward of Port Jackson.
Friday.19th. The Sirius went over the (th) above on the No. side of the Harbour, to be clear'd & refitted for the purpose of examining the Ground Tier & strength'ning her upper

Page 166[a138166]

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1789
June
works with Riders: in the night 3 of the Natives appear'd on the shore near the Ship, where they remained a short time & went away, they did not speak & we observed them creeping along to avoid making any noise, this appear'd to be a visit of curiosity to see who they had near them.
Saturday.20th. In Spring Cove 70 of the Natives were seen in one party by our fishing boat.
Thursday.25th. The Governor went to Rose Hill in consequence of receiving information of a large peice of Water being discover'd some distance to the W.ward of Rose Hill, but he being anxious to pursue his discovery of the River in Broken Bay left this for the present.
Monday.29th: The Governor, Capt.Hunter & party went to Broken Bay to trace the River to its source, The Master as before went round to meet this Party in the South Arm with three weeks Provisions.
Tuesday.30th. An Officer return'd from a Visit to those at Rose Hill, during his stay there, they made a party to the W.ward 18 or 20 Miles when they were obstructed by water, which they found to be fresh & apparently a part of a very considerable river; they found Natives there who had traps for catching Ducks great quantities of which were seen; they also had snares for taking Opossums & other Animals: This part of the River

Page 167[a138167]

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1789
June
which Capt. Tench fell in with bore nearly West, from Rose Hill, estimated distance 18 Miles; It is conjectured to be a part of that River which the Governor is now gone to trace; they did not observe any tide but a constant set to the NEbN in which direction the branch they fell in with lay; Its breadth they reckon about 80 fathoms & to appearances deep water; Capt. Tench attempted crossing it in an Old Canoe which was found there, but was obliged to give it up by her filling, the Banks appear'd very high & as if they were subjected to great Torrents in Rainy Season; In this excursion they met with level open Country for some Miles & the Grass short, so as not to be troublesome in walking. 
Near the banks on the Et. Side they found a party of Natives sitting round a fire broiling a Kanguroo Rat, they all ran away as soon as they discover'd any Person near them. Amongst other things found there, was a peice, made of the skins of small animals sew'd or laced together, somepart was of the Opossum skin, the rest of some animal the fur much superior; these were curiously carved on the inside, every skin having a different pattern & the whole formed a peice that was supposed they might use to cover a child with: The Needle they use was found; It is a hard

Page 168[a138168]

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C 1789
June. July
peice of wood much in size & shape of a small bodkin, with which they make holes (it not having an eye) to receive the thread which was found & appears to be the sinewy fibres from the tail of some small animal.
Tuesday.7th. A second party return'd from Rose Hill after having visited the River that had been discover'd to the Wt.ward, some small distance lower down than the former party had been, they supposed it to be fordable but did not venture on account or a strong set & a fall with it: One of the part crossed it in an Old Canoe buoy'd up bundles of Reeds & the wild fig tree which they found would swim, they found Wild Yams on both sides of the River. 
Tuesday.14th. Finding that the Governor was in the Nt. Arm we sent a boat for him & his party, on this boat landing to the utter astonishment of all in her they saw the Sailmaker who had been missing 3 days, going about the Hill close to the Ship Saturday afternoon, he lost himself & wandered into the woods; parties were sent in all directions each day to look for him & to no purpose & boats along the shore Monday & Tuesday, on which days Guns were fired on board the Sirius to direct him to the Ship, the Guns on Tuesday morn'g being heard by the Governors party in the lower part

Page 169[a138169]

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1789
July.
of the Harbour, they supposed to cause to be a Man lost & in their walk towards Middle Harbor to look for a Boat found the print of a Man's foot with a shoe on which served to convince them that they had judged right & determin'd them to search for him; they fired a volley of Musquets & were soon after by a single Musquet, which being repeated on both sides, they soon came within hail & calling to the lost Man to stand still they soon found him; His joy on seeing them was such that for some time he was like an Idiot. 
This Man experienced a most singular deliverance from perishing in the Woods; He had not more than half a dozen charges of powder when he left the Ship & no provisions; altho' he tried to fire his Musquet till he wore the flint to a stump he could not get it to go off, only at night to get a fire to rest by; from this circumstance alone he was enabled to answer the Governors Party when they first began firing vollies for him then he again had the same good fortune, his Gun not missing fire on either of these occasions & his stock of Amunition just sufficient for those purposes. The Governor return'd the same evening to Sydney Cove, they had traced all the braches of the River which they discover'd in their last visit to Broken Bay; About 3 Mile within

Page 170[a138170]

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1789
July. 
the entrance of the River it branched away to the So. 6 or 7 Miles in which were other inconsiderable & shoal branches from this the Main River run some Miles then taking a SW direction & branching away to the No'ward which branch was extensive but shoal water. Capt. Hunter observed the Latitude 3 Miles below that past where it was too shoal for the boats to proceed, to be 33:21So. The Main Channel to the SW took many windings, following which until they got into very shoal water with very large hard stones of which the Natives make their hatchets &c. & at the beginning of the falls, they found themselves at the foot of a hill which they ascended, Capt. Hunter observed the Latitude on it 33:37So.The Governor named it Richmond Hill. 
As they proceeding up the River, the Trees had much the appearance of there being great torrents in a rainy Season, Grass Mud & peices of timber were found in them measured 30 feet from the surface of the River to that of the Tree where they had been lodged in the great freshes or Torrents. This River by Captn. Hunters estimated distances following the course of the Main River runs 55 Miles to Richmond Hill which is by do. 27 Miles West & by Observation 2 Miles So. of the Inner South Head of Broken Bay; This

Page 171[a138171]

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1789
July.August.
River, the Governor named the Hawkesbury.
Thursday.16th. The Boats returned from Broken Bay, they met with a Man Woman & Child, the woman was the same that they met with before in the So.Arm just recovering from the Small Pox, who was now quite recover'd of the disease but one of her legs was contracted, this Family would have been taken by force but the wind not being fair, the Officer in the Boat did not think it a proper opportunity.
Friday.31st. The Parson & the Native Girl went down the Harbor to endeavour to have an interview with the Natives, they met with a party of them, some of whom the Girl said were her relations, she told them how well she was treated that she had recover'd by the care taken of her & that whe was very happy & used every persuasion to get one or more of them to return with her, but to no purpose.
Sunday. Augt. 2nd. The Surgeon General with the Native boy went about the Harbour for the same purpose, they soon met with a party of the Natives who knew the boy, but they could not prevail on any (of them) to come with them, the boy was much inclined to join the naked tribe.
Saturday.8th. The Supply arrived; having landed the party of Marines, Stores &c. at Norfolk Island, she proceeded in search of Middleton's Shoal & Island discover'd by Mr. Shortland but did not meet with either, after having passed over

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1789
August:September.
their situation as given by him; Nor did theyi meet with that shoal seen by Mr Blackburne in the Golden Grove & was supposed to be part of that which Mr. Shortland had named Middletons Shoal.
Monday.10th. The Carpenter with a part of the Crew only, came on board to examine into & repair the Ships defects for which purpose she had long since been clear'd.
Tuesday.18th. A Party went down the Harbour to take a Native if a good opportunity affor'd, they met with several in the No.Arm & found them very friendly, they did not take much notice of the Native boy who accompanied the Party or the Boy of them, they were a considerable time with them but had not an opportunity of taking one.
Thursday. 27th. Capt. Hunter went by the Sea Coast to Broken Bay, to examine the Bays &c. between Port Jackson & it; Two boats were sent round with the 1st. Lieut. to meet them & proceed on the Survey of Broken Bay, at 2 in the afternoon the boats arrived at Broken Bay, & met Capt. Hunter there the next morning. During our stay in the So.Arm , only three of the Natives were met with & but few other seen.
Tuesday. Sept.8th. Having survey'd the Bay, South & SW Arms up to near the entrance of the Hawkesbury, return'd to Port Jackson.
Broken Bay is easily known when to the So.ward of it

Page 173[a138173]

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1789
September.
by the land of the So.Head which forms a high round bluff to the Sea from a low neck, & when the entrance of the Bay is well open another bluff Head will shew itself, round which is the South Arm; As you approach the entrance an Island which lies in the Bay & off the So. & SW Arms will appear & very high toward the Sea, this is the mark to lead you into either of those Arms passing the the So.ward of the Island, the SW Arm lays from it about SW 1/2W by Compass, & the South Arm nearly So.. 
The South Arm has fresh water in several of the Coves; there is a flat at the entrance which extends more than 2/3 of the Channel over from the Et. Point, between which & the Wt. shore is 3 fm. at low water & shoaling very gradually on the bank: Going into this Arm steer in for the Wt. point keeping the land forming the Et. Point or Inner So.Head open until well over on the Wt. shore, which keep on board 'till the No.Head of the Bay comes on with the Inner So.Head, then you may haul over to the Et.ward, after passing this flat there is not any thing found that will take a ship up in the fair way up to the Arm or into any of the Coves, that a Ship may chuse a birth as may be most convenient.
Just within the inner South Head, Capt. Hunter observed the Latitude 33:351/2.S.& at the upper part of the So. Arm 33:41. This Arm the Governor has named Pitt Water.

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1789
September.
There is a middle ground with less than 3 fathoms on it in some parts, near the entrance(^or outer part) of the SW Arm, there is good room on both sides it shoals gradually to the Middle ground when near it, the Et. side is deepest water & best channel as you are landlock'd on that side when abreast of the Middle ground. There is a rock lays a small distance of the Pt. forming the Arm above two little sandy bays which you avoid by not opening the No.Head of the Bay with the Et. end of the Island until the length of that point, then by keeping it just open you avoid the Middle Ground to the Et.ward, the water near the shore on the Et. side is deep: 
When you are the length of the No. point forming a branch to the NW out of this Arm you are above the Middle Ground & may anchor where you please in this Arm in which are several branches & Coves forming very good Harbour with good depth of water & fresh water in several of the Coves: the branch leading to the NW has a large flat near 1/2 way over from the No. shore, to which in the Channel up it shoals gradually to 3 feet. 
As you come into this branch, an Island will shew itself to the NNW about 2 Miles up, there is a flat round to the So. & Et.ward some parts of which dry at low water, but there is a very good Channel round the No. part of it & when to the No'ward & Wt'ward of this Island the opening leading to the Hawkesbury River will shew itself to the Wt'ward, between two Islands which forms the

Page 175[a138175]

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1789
September:
entrance of it, in going to which you leave two large openings to the No.ward, these are large peices of water but too shoal for anything except boats. 
The rive Hawkesbury following the Course of the Main Channel is by Captain Hunter's estimated distance 55 Miles, to the falls, near the foot of Richmond Hill on which Capt. Hunter Obs'd Latitude 33:37.S., & near the top of a shoal branch of the River leading to the No.ward 33:21.S. which is some miles to the No.ward of any part of the No. Arm of the Bay as examined by our Boats.
The North Arm of Broken Bay is very shoal, with a large flat laying off the entrance of it on which the Sea breaks a considerable distance out except in very fine weather: It is only fit for boats through a very narrow Channel & frequently dangerous.
The Bay, except that part on the No. side just mention'd, appears to be clear ground with regular soundings in Behind both the rocky points at the So. end of the sandy beaches in the Bay is good shelter for Boats in any weather, or for small Vessels to push for if caught in the Bay & not able to reach the So. or SW Arms; I think either of these bights far more safe than to attempt the No. Arm. By Captain Hunter's Observation the entrance of Broken Bay is 16 Miles to the No.ward of Port Jackson, the Coast

 

WILLIAM BRADLEY'S CHART OF BROKEN BAY

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